Lolumina Shutter release Often when I look at Leicas or Fuji X series cameras, I …
This panel mostly affects what you see in Live View mode and doesn’t affect what actually gets recorded. The adjustments here are to make your job as a shooter easier.
LV Digic Peaking-
This uses your digit process for focus peaking. You can set it to:
Slightly sharper- to maintain a normal view.
Edge Image- which give you an appearance similar to a high pass filter.
Edge + Chroma- which gives you some color in addition to the edges.
This will let you adjust the brightness of your display. This can help when shooting in bright outdoor situations, but keep in mind, your display uses up a lot of your battery and can also contribute to the overheating of your camera, which of course, can introduce noise into your image. Use judiciously.
This adjust the amount of contrast in your LiveView screen ONLY- it does not adjust the recording contrast. This can be useful if you are using Technicolor Cinestyle and are having difficulty focusing die to the bright, soft contrast.
Some find it easier to find focus in Grayscale, or if you have a particularly flat scene, you can boost the saturation so you can see better.
LV DISPLAY GAIN
When you are shooting stills in complete darkness, this increases the brightness of the LiveView screen at times when it would otherwise be too dark. In MOVIE MODE, the equivalent would be ML DIGITAL ISO GAIN.
This gets rid of the overlays when using LiveView, so you see a “clean” image.
Half-shutter- hold shutter down half way for one second, or, alternatively, use the * or DOF preview button
When Idle- overlays are erased when the camera is idle for a few seconds.
Always- the overlays are gone in this mode- useful for using external recorders if you are unable to get a clean HDMI out.
This is to see a corrected image when using a very wide-angle lens (like 8mm). It can correct using Rectilinear or Panini (sandwich) correction.
If you are lucky enough to be shooting with an anamorphic lens, this lets you “unsqueeze” the image so you can get a good idea of your framing.
Screen layout settings-
3:2 display Default for most newer cameras
16:10 HDMI this applies to 16:10 monitors
16:9 HDMI Applies to 16:9 Monitors
Bottom, under 3:2 This is good in photo mode for 4:3 screen cameras like the 500D, 50D and 5D
Bottom, under 16:9 Meant for lo-res monitors and 4:3 cameras in MOVIE mode
(4:3 MOVIE the 5D, 500D, and 50D can use this layout.)
This lets you decide what color you want your Magic Lantern layout to be. If you are trying to preserve your night vision, using the red layout can help.
If you want to adjust the center position of your display, you can adjust it either 8 or 16 pixels up or down.
Set your Live View to be:
Turning this off prevents the screen from mirroring, which could make the text read backwards on your screen.
LV crazy colors- Some say that this can help you with White Balance. You can set it to Swap U-V ,or use Extreme Chroma.
You will get a 720×480 lo-res image on your screen, so that your external monitor will not be blank when you stop recording.
60D ONLY LEVEL INDICATOR
Level indicator that can be used while recording.
50D only KILL CANON GUI
Some of the MAGIC LANTERN display can conflict with the native Canon ones. This disables the old canon ones.
IDLE/MENUS: The Canon menus are only there when you have some transparent menu in LIVE VIEW
IDLE/MENUS +KEYS: You have to press some keys or navigate to the transparent menu from live view.