Magic Lantern Feature: Preferences Pane

on November 6, 2014

This panel is mostly about how you can customize your camera for your workflow.  If you are just starting out with a particular camera, it is best to leave most of these in their stock default positions.  As you work more with your camera, there will be certain settings you find yourself going to more often, or pet peeves that you want fixed.  This area is for making that workflow easier for you, but it requires an intimate knowledge of bot how you and your camera work.  Keep in mind that when you change these settings, anyone else using your camera will likely be lost when they use yours, as you have remapped and reprogrammed a lot of stock features.



Pressing SET and turning the scroll wheel you can:

Play 422 (see silent pictures)

Exposure Fusion: see two different exposures together- helpful if you are setting up an HDR shot and want to previs your final prodcus

Compare Image: compare two images with the CURRENT IMAGE ON TOP.  Very useful if you are shooting retakes and need to match exposure

Timelapse Play: Meant to be able o look at a timelapse, you can also use it to get an idea of your stills from the day very quickly.



CANON MENU:Hold—>PLAY  If you set IMAGEREVIEW:HOLD within the CANON menu, it will actually press PLAY instead, allowing you to ZOOM IN to pixel peep immediately after taking the photo instead of having to do another button press for image review

QUICK ZOOM: a very fast zoom for image review

You can have it either:


On, making it zoom in faster

Single press —> 100% It will take you to 100% in one press- right in the middle of the photo

Full zoom on AF point: same, but at where your AF was.

Full zoom on last position: same, but just goes right back to wherever you last left it.


You can change the functionality of this button when you are in PLAY mode

Default takes you back to live view

Protect Image does just that

Rate Image lets you do that

Quick Erase lets you do that- now you don’t have the double confirmation prompt before removing photos.  It seems convenient at first, then you go too fast and delete something.  Leave this turned off. Cards are huge and cheap nowadays.  Erase at home.


You can customize your arrow keys to do a couple of different things:

Audio Gain for adjust audio (adjust levels up and down)  SET adjust the audio input

ISO (Left/Right) / Kelvin (Up/Down) SET adjusts WB

Shutter (Left/Right) / Aperture (Up/Down)  SET adjusts 180 degree shutter

LCD Brightness (Left/Right) / Saturation (Right)  SET rests back to Defaults



You can use the LCD Sensor as an extra customizable “key”.

“STICKY” DOF PREVIEW– this makes it so you don’t have to hold the DOF button down continuously, but “blocks” out a lot of other functions.   Don’t use it.  Use Exposure Override instead.

STICKY HALF SHUTTER: “Holds down” the half shutter for you.  Can be used to prevent LiveView from going to sleep.

(60D: Swap “MENU” <-> “ERASE”  The “Trash” button on the 60D is on the left hand side, forcing you to use two hands to use ML.  Swapping these buttons allows access to all of the ML menu using only  your right hand- HOWEVER, the MENU botton now become the “ERASE” button.)

(600D: Digital Zoom Shortcut:  Movie Mode

This allows either 1x or 3x zoom

3x to 10x: Canon Defaults )


If you are firing off shots in burst mode, and you buffer becomes full, instead of making you wait, this temporarily reduces the quality of your pictures so you don’t slow down.  Uselful for SPorts photography where a medium res image os better than missing the moment.  Not so great for Fashion or commercial photography where image quality takes precedence.


Enable POWERSAVE: on Standby/ On Record/  Always.

Use LCD Sensor: Use your LCD sensor to trigger Powersave on or off.

Dim Display: If you are idle in Live View, this will reduce the LCD display to save you some juice for later.

Turn off LCD and LV:  This only turns off the LCD SENSOR and DISPLAY, but it keeps EVERYTHING ELSE the same, So: if you were recording before it went dark, you are still recording now.

Turn Off Global Draw: The ML overlays is not displayed in order to reduce the load on the CPU.


If you find yourself in shooting conditions that are constantly changing, you can select up to FOUR different presets to display in the LIVE view mode.

Say in one condition , you are shooting outdoors and are worried about blowing your highlight- you can set the zebra exposure stripes on.

Or you have another setup with wide establishing shots- you can use the Fibonacci Curve overlay to help you compose your scene.

There are four presets, but they are set 0-3, so preset 0 is your first one.

If you find you are only using one or two presets, you can also limit the number of presets to speed up your workflow.

To change the preset, press INFO/DISP while you are in LIVE VIEW, or Q in the Global Draw Overlay menu.


If you are using a crop sensor camera, and are coordinating your angles with someone that is shooting full frame, this is an easy way to keep track of your camera angles.

Crop sensor (APS-C) sensor cameras, remember, magnify the image by 1.6x.  (Keep in mind while this effects the FIELD OF VIEW, this does not replicate the essential lens performance and compression characteristics of a longer lens.  80mm lenses look great for portraits because of how they compress the features of the face.  A 50mm lens will have the same FOV, but not the same “look” as an 80mm, even if the Field of View is similar.)

This makes it so that when you are looking at your lens info, instead of 23mm f2.0, it will say “35mm eq f2.0”